This is where the magic happens, together we’re going to build your perfect guitar. A couple of parts to the process. Go through the options on the right pick out the ones you want to have in your guitar. If you have any question shoot me a note.
Once I have the order, I’ll put together a build sheet and send it back to you. It has a bit more detail and gives you and I chance to confirm that we’re building exactly the guitar you want. So don’t worry that once you made the order it’s written in stone. We can adjust, amend, delete, add changes and ideas.
Pick between the newer, teardrop chambered body or the old school solid body. There’s a pic of the chamber in the FAQ section.
We are doing the chambered as our standard. What about the tone you ask. We have make alot of them now and to our ear there is no degrading of the tonal qualities at all. The tone is beautiful and full, as you would expect, but the guitar is just lighter, actually better to play because it is ligther.
We have a couple of players that are big stadium guitarists, that are real tone hounds and they swear they can’t tell the difference. Well one of them just swears…..
The weight reduction varies abit ’cause of the wood but generally chambering takes off about 1lb or .45kg.
We’re all about wood and flame or quilted are crazy beautiful on our guitars. We have great figured wood in stock from just exceptionally rich and dynamic presentation grade quilted maple to a nice subtle eastern flame. They make the guitars pop visually. We’re always on the look out for exceptional wood and grab it when we come across it.
I get asked a lot about the difference between Eastern Flame and 4A Flame. I have put a couple of pics up, in the FAQ section that I think illustrate it well. Basically the 4A flames are way more prominent and book matched. The eastern flame are more subtle and can be very different grain patterns on each side.
All of our maple caps are two piece. We’re very good at making our wood joins.
Pick Up Rout
Make your choice – Humbucker, the original soap bar p90’s or if you need all the power you can get outta of guitar, triple hum buckers. Wake the neighbours up, they sleep too much anyway. 🙂
Bridge and Tail Piece
We use the large stud holes for our bridge and tail piece.
We also offer the TOM Bridge with the 1/8″ holes. This is the old school way of doing it.
Fret Board Inlays
We use a celluloid MOP style of fret markers.
Binding can finish a guitar nicely. We offer cream, white, black and 7ply on the body.
You can do just the body, just the neck or both. We’d match it up for you.
All of our kits come standard with the Jescar Medium Jumbo. Here’s an idea of the sizing.
|#||Material||Crown Width||Crown Height||Tang Width|
Stainless steel wreak havoc on our tools, they’re like the Tasmanian Devil to work with.. They have to worked with very expensive diamond tools, so that’s why they cost a lot more.
All our necks are quartersawn ONE piece necks. This makes for the most stable of necks. We also put an angle in the tenon and an angle in the HS. The combination makes the geometry awesome.
60’s – slim and fast 1st Fret – .8″ / 12th fret .885 ”
59 – A big more girth – 1st Fret – .877″ / 12th fret.976″
JR – Baseball cut – 1st Fret – .955″ / 12th fret 1.125″
1 11/16th Nut Width
I am offering a custom profile, this is for just the back, not the headstock. You’ll have to get me the dimensions
We have our PGK headstock but we also can get you a paddle headstock for your own interpretation of what headstock should look like. This paddle headstock is 6.7″ long and 3.5″ wide, it is too short and too thin to be an exact replica of any other guitar. Just sayin’
We call our standard headstock PGK, just stands for Precision Guitar Kits. ( I kept getting asked that in emails 🙂 )
If you dont see something you want here, please shoot me an email ( see the link below ) and we do our best to get it for you.