Can’t thank you enough. I worked on this everyday until I had to wait to buff the finish. It’s hard to put down now. It sounds way better than my other guitars, and plays a lot better too! The wood joints are extremely well cut, and wood quality is excellent , fret work is fantastic , fretboard inlays are very well made… very precise, and the extra jumbo frets makes playing this thing very fun, and easy.
I used colortone stain, mixed in alcohol , behlen nitro lacquer , Grover tuners, tonepros metric bridge and tailpiece set, zakk wylde emg pickup set and various other small parts.
I can’t wait to build another one . Thank you again, and I will surely be back .
What’s The Best Fender Guitar Neck Profile For You? Here is a great run down on the Fender Guitar Neck Profiles
C-shaped neck profile. The most common modern neck profile. C-shaped necks have a comfortable oval profile that works well for most playing styles. Usually not as deep as most U- and V-shaped neck profiles. Many Fender guitars, especially Stratocasters, now have a “modern C shape” (or “flat oval”) neck profile, a flattened variation of the traditional C shape.The term “neck profile” refers to the shape of the back of a guitar neck in cross section and is often used interchangeably with the term “back shape.” It’s also referred to simply as “neck shape,” although there are other important neck measurements with which “neck profile” shouldn’t be confused (i.e., neck width, neck depth and fingerboard radius).
Fine, but what does all this technical talk mean to the average guitar player who just wants to know what time it is rather than how to build a clock? What does it mean when you’re considering buying a Fender guitar with a description that mentions the instrument’s neck profile?
Before delving into the details, it’s important to understand that neck profile doesn’t affect the sound of the guitar itself; it affects the way you play it. There isn’t one shape that’s objectively better than another when it comes to soloing or chording or doing jazz licks or scissor kicks or whatever. It’s purely a matter of personal preference and playing comfort—originally instituted at the request of players who simply had their own individual preferences.
OK, now the details. Fender uses the letters C, U and V to designate its neck profiles, along with numerous variations of each. The actual shape of these letters roughly corresponds to the shape of the back the neck in cross section, and each may have varying depths—different thicknesses from the front of the neck to the back, resulting in terms such as “thick C shape” and “deep U shape,” etc.
U-shaped neck profile. Chunky and rounded, with high shoulders. Especially deep U-shaped necks like those found on some Telecaster guitars are sometimes referred to as “baseball bat” necks. Good for players with large hands and players who are more comfortable with their thumb on the back or side of the neck.
V-shaped neck profile. Two versions are popular—a more rounded “soft” V and a more pointed “hard” V often preferred by players more comfortable with their thumb hanging over the edge of the fingerboard. V-shape neck profiles are pretty old school and show up on many reissue instruments.
There are also further subdivisions of each type, usually denoted by a design year or era (i.e., ’50s V shape, ’61 C shape, ’70s C shape), in which subtle period-specific variations in one of the basic neck profiles is recreated precisely.
There is occasional confusion about C, U and V neck profile designations and A, B, C and D neck width designations. From the early ’60s to the early ’70s, Fender referred specifically to the nut width of its instrument necks using the letters A (1 ½”), B (1 5/8″), C (1 ¾”) and D (1 7/8″). These letters were stamped on the butt-end of the necks and had nothing to do with neck profile.